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Weingut Bianka und Daniel Schmitt Freiheit Weiß 2023
Bianka and Daniel took over the Weingut Schmitt in 2012 as the fourth generation to lead the winery. They are based in Wonnegau in the south Rheinhessen, centered in Flörsheim-Dalsheim. All of the vineyards are in Flörsheim-Dalsheim and neighbour villages Monsheim and Kriegsheim. Bianka and Daniel have been working their 16 hectares biodynamically for over a decade and are one of only 80 producers in Germany to be Demeter certified.
The Freiheit Weiß is a blend of five different grapes. The grapes of Scheurebe and Huxelrebe macerate for about a week and half on the skins, while the weiß- and Grauburgunder, Riesling and Silvaner went directly to the press with whole cluster.
In the glass, the wine has a light straw yellow. The nose shows gooseberries, bright flowers and ripe apple. On the palate it is fresh and light, with a beautiful texture.
Bianka and Daniel took over the Weingut Schmitt in 2012 as the fourth generation to lead the winery. They are based in Wonnegau in the south Rheinhessen, centered in Flörsheim-Dalsheim. All of the vineyards are in Flörsheim-Dalsheim and neighbor villages Monsheim and Kriegsheim. Bianka and Daniel have been working their 16 hectares biodynamically for over a decade and are one of only 80 producers in Germany to be Demeter certified. They work with amphorae as well as used oak barrels and release a ‘Natur’ line that contains no added sulphur.
Here are Bianka and Daniel in their own words:
“Working biodynamically is a lifestyle that includes producing and spreading preparations in the vineyards as well as social interactions. The interactions between the life in the soil (like bacteria, mykorizen, plants as green cover and the vines) are composed with each other. Vines become stronger and get more vitality from a living soil, not from chemical treatments.
This active interaction in the soil life, the mutual strengthening of the plants result in stronger resilience for the vines which reflects the high quality of the grape, supports the presence of the individual soil types (calcareous soil covered by clay and partly loess, pebble). By working according to the biodynamic principles, biodiversity is supported as an automatic successor. As a result, the vineyards and the biotopes created by Bianka and Daniel offer a home for a diverse and local animal community.
After hand picking, the grapes are processed with or without skin maceration. And rest in wooden oaks (5000L, 3000L, 1200L, 600L) or clay amphorae (1200L, 300L) for at least 12 months on the whole yeast depot. The focus is on offering an optimal aging potential for the years to come. In order to support the collegial exchange and to enable operational training in the field of biodynamic agriculture, Bianka and Daniel and their winery are proud members of the Renaissance des Appellations, Demeter and Vinnatur associations.”
Château de Parnay Chemin des Murs Saumur Blanc 2023
Château de Parnay is the flagship of the Loire Valley. The property is located along the Loire river and classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Sourced from a walled vineyard, this 100% Chenin Blanc shows refined scents of lime, lemongrass, apricot, peach and quince. The palate is greeted by a round and mellow notes of preserved lemons and grapefruits with a beautiful freshness that provides an invigorating structural liveliness for gourmet pairings with fish and crustaceans.
Suggested pairing: cured fish, as well as grilled fish, crustaceans (langoustines, crayfish, lobsters), and hard cheeses (comté, mimolette and others).
Château de Parnay is the flagship of the AOC Saumur Champigny. The property is located along the Loire river, classified as UNESCO World Heritage, on the most reputable clay and limestone terroirs of the appellation. The historic property was taken over by Mathias Levron & Régis Vincenot in 2006 with the aim of restoring the nobility of this special place.
Drawing their strength from the authenticity of their values, they now cultivate 50 hectares of vines with the aim of producing exceptional wines in a way that respects the environment. They have been certified organic since 2013 and are about to be certified biodynamic too.
The Clos of Chemin des Murs is the jewel of the property! Coming from the imagination of it's orginal owner, Antoine Cristal, this Clos was built, planted and cultivated according to an unprecedented technique. On this half hectare of Chenin Blanc, each vine was planted on the north face of a stone wall. Through a hole in the stone the vine crosses through the wall and allowing the grapes to grow facing the southern sunshine. The vine is said to have its 'foot in the cool and belly in the sun'.
A captivating chenin blanc from Saumur, famed for its calcareous "tuffeau" soils, among others, on which chenin blanc can reach showstopping heights. The aromatics are dizzying here with spring blossom, honeysuckle, ginger and lemongrass hitting the nose with staggered entry. The texture is equally alluring with a juxtaposition of mineral, freshness and viscosity resulting in a dynamic interplay. Expressive with memorable length. Tasted August 2022.
This is from a leading Saumur producer of Loire chenin blanc with vines planted in calcerous clay soils near the Loire River outside of classical town. It is both rich and delicate, a juxtaposition I find in some of the world's best whites. It is not however an intense, flashy, acid and mineral driven chenin. Fermentation in neutral barrels has created a pale gold hue and softened the nose to gentle honeyed, spicy state along with ripe pear/apricot jam fruit. It is medium-full bodied, smooth and dry, almost creamy, with the grape's acidity and minerality arriving more on the finish. The complexity and length are excellent, with a touch of wood spice and bitterness as well. Tasted August 2022
Clos del Rey Le Sabina Rouge AOC Maurey Sec 2024
Established in 2001 by Julien Montagné and his family. Clos del Rey is located in the heart of the Maury appellation in the Roussillon. Although Maury is best known for its sweet, port-like wines, Clos del Rey only produces dry red wines now produced as AOC Maury Sec.
Le Sabina is an old bush vine cuvée of grenache, carignan and syrah grown on very stony, black schist soils. This engaging red is a concentrated, aromatic, flavourful wine, with a pure essence of blackberry and blueberry fruit, sweet and resinous wild herbs, scorched earth and liquorice. A highly satisfying and bold ensemble. Tannins are abundant but coated and softened by highly intense fruit extract. Great length as noted by Master Sommelier John Szabo.
This wine is great with BBQ meats, lamb, beef, you name it.
In the foothills of the Pyrénées Mountains, not far from the Mediterranean sea, Clos del Rey is situated in the high altitude hills over the tiny village of Maury. The estate has been owned and farmed by the Montagne family for generations. The vineyard itself is nestled among a protected area of garrigues (rosemary and thyme). The vines of up to 120 years old are allowed to grow natural and untrained, in the old-fashioned way, known as the goblet or bush style. However, it is what lies beneath the vineyard that lends much of the character and complexity found in their wines. Julien Montagne makes complex wines that truly represent his vineyards and his Catalan roots--you can almost smell the sun in the glass.
This sports a very pretty, lifted nose plum, cranberry and blackberry, with lifted lilac florals and a subtext of pepper. It is quite lively, refined and energized for the genre from the south of France, perhaps due to the schist and limestone soils in Maury (which is more famous for its sweet vins doux natural. This is almost silky texture with 14.5% abv heat and fine, drying tannin and minerality on the finish. The length is excellent. Drinks now. Tasted Feb 2026
A classic red from Maury, an appellation in Rousillon, this is a blend of grenache, samsó (a.k.a carignan), and syrah. I find its flavour profile enchanting - it is vibrant and vivid, showcasing both generosity and poise. Resinous herbs, some fresh, some gently roasted, and wild flowers are juxtaposed with ripe fruit flavours, including plums and blueberries. The palate is voluptuous, warm, and dense, supported by firm acidity and fine-grained tannins. The long, flavourful finish features a botanical bitterness, while warmth diffuses over the palate. Tasted February 2026.
The black schist at 200m of elevation looking up at Maury with soils edging and abutting a line of limestone work to build character and Roussillon expression for grenache noir, carignan and syrah. A well developed style with chewy fruit maturity in a vintage more black olive Mediterranean than some others. Amaro herbal, always liquorice, saline and schisty-fine. Drink 2026-2029. Tasted February 2026.
Cascina Castlèt Barbera D'Asti 'Vespa' 2023
Cascina Castlèt has belonged to the Borio family for generations; Mariuccia, the current owner, inherited it from her father in 1970. Mariuccia focuses on her terroir and the local varieties.
The vineyards of the estate are spread over 31 hectares, and are all located in Costigliole d'Asti. The clusters of Barbera were hand-harvested and unveil a rather aromatic wine with a crunchy fruitiness. The wine evokes blackberry and cherry on a delicately floral background. Balanced and delectable, there is even a subtle note of minerality.
A wine that will pair perfectly with white and red grilled meats, salami and young cheeses.
Cascina Castlèt has belonged to the Borio family for generations; Mariuccia, the current owner, inherited it from her father in 1970. Mariuccia focuses on her terroir and the local varieties. The vineyards of the estate are spread over 31 hectares, and are all located in Costigliole d'Asti.
Very nice blueberry and blackberry character with some spicy orange. Medium body. Fruity and tart. Drink now.
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