France

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90 points - David Lawrason

This is new appellation (formerly Coteaux de Triscatin) is the northernmost in the southern Rhone. It uses the typical southern Rhone varieties, but none can be more than 80% of the blend. This is a quite elegant, well structured, mid-weight red with some stony minerality, lifted pepper and savoury notes. Not as opulently fruity and rich as many peers, yet very tidy and balanced. The length is very good to excellent. Tasted March 2022

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92 points - David Lawrason

This is a very tasty, rich, golden hued, well aged chardonnay-based sparkler with an involved nose of cashew, baked apple, nougat and honey. It is almost creamy in texture with fine mousse and very good acidity providing counterpoint. There is pleasant nutty bitterness on the finish; length is excellent.

91 points - Michael Godel

Varietal chardonnay that sees a year of lees aging with a dosage to reach the desired Brut. A richness and also dried herbal notes plus fennel that is offset by a creamy sweetness melting and melded through the pictorial texture of a wine so sharp and yet so soft. One imagines the Baud family being led by such humans and when a wine acts as an expression of they, well isn’t that the point in a wine like this? Drink 2022-2024. Tasted July 2022.

Baud’s Crémant is made in true Blanc de Blancs style, from 100 per cent chardonnay and though faintly if beautifully oxidative, the cuvée pulses with great energy. The scents of fraying ginger batons, scraped orange skin and baking almond cookies are all a treat for the olfactory. Just enough but not too much sweetness fleshes the the body to get down to density in mouthfeel but never abandons its airy character. A terrific Champagne alternative that was disgorged in October of 2017. Drink 2018-2022. Tasted April 2018.

Treve Ring

91 points

This family estate dates back to 1742, but it wasn't until 1950 when René Baud, 7th generation, rebuilt the vineyards, expanding from 4 hectares into 20 hectares over the years. Today the estate is managed by siblings Clémentine and Bastien, 9th generation. This sustainably farmed chardonnay is rooted in the Jura's marl and limestone soils and was fermented in stainless before a year on lees before disgorgement and release. Green apple, white florals, oyster shells, meadow herbs, meringue run the bright, sleek palate, with a bed of creamy lees. There's a lovely streaming anise note that leads to a lengthy finish. Drinking beautifully now, but will hold over the next couple years easy.

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91 points - John Szabo

An old vines cuvée of grenache, carignan and syrah from the stony, schisty soils of Maury, historically reserved for fortified wine production in the style of port, this Maury 'Sec' is a concentrated and aromatic, flavourful wine, with a liquor-like essence of blackberry and blueberry fruit, sweet and resinous wild herbs, scorched earth and licorice, and more in a highly satisfying and bold ensemble. Tannins are abundant but coated and softened by high fruit extract, while acids are low but adequate to balance the big ensemble. Great length. Immensely satisfying at the price; drink or hold another 4-6 years I suspect without concern. Tasted September 2022.

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a rich, ripe blend from Maury Sec, an appellation in the Agly Valley in Roussillon that was authorized for the production of dry red wines in 2011. The nose is inviting and appealing, with notes of cherry compôte, black raspberries, garrigue, and a subtle mineral aroma that reminds me of wet cement. It is medium-bodied, with grainy, drying tannins and balanced acids. I really like the lush fruit on the mid-palate that recede gracefully, leaving a subtle bitterness and warmth in their wake. Tasted September 2022.

90 points - David Lawrason

The village of Maury is better known for its sweet 'vins doux naturel'. This dry red based on grenache, carignan and syrah shows the energy, or a certain internal combustion, I associate with the carignan grape. The nose is quite lifted with red fruit (raspberry, plum) some spice and minerality. It is medium-full bodied, sour-edged and firmly tannic with some heat. Quite peppery and meaty (charcuterie) on the finish. The length is excellent. Tasted Sept 2022

90 points - Sarah d'Amato

From a relatively new appellation in the southwestern region of Roussillon designated in 2011 to allow producers to craft dry reds in addition to the more famous Vin Doux of Maury. In the midst of all the sweetness of the region, Clos del Rey makes only dry wines. This plush incarnation features flavours of liquored black cherry, a chalky minerality and tender tannins. Ripe but with a lick of minerality that helps to provide balance along with a welcome degree of bitterness. Some bitterness helps curb the perception of alcohol too. An arresting yet youthfully broody wine. Tasted September 2022.

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91 points - David Lawrason

Saint Bris is a rare sauvignon blanc appellation in northern Burgundy, pres de Chablis, which is not all that far as the crow flies from Sancerre. And I definitely get that tight, firm if less mineral character here. Expect generous aromas and flavours of juniper, grapefruit, pine needle and gooseberry/guava. It is medium weight, firm and dry, with some bitterness. The length is excellent. Always fun to present it this blind to sauvignon blanc fans. Tasted January 2024

Value Rating:  5 Stars

90 points - John Szabo, MS

This is an uncommonly ripe and fruity sauvignon blanc from Saint Bris in Burgundy, round and creamy, quite full bodied despite just 12.5% alcohol declared, with ripe orchard and pineapple fruit leading. Acids are creamy yet still fresh, and length and depth are very good. And while I'd love a little more complexity at the price, or at least would have expected, the current international yardstick of inexorably increasing prices secures this wine a spot in a favourable quality/cost zone. At peak now I'd say to capture the fruit. Tasted January 2024.

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

Saint Bris is an appellation in Bourgogne that, unusually, is centred around sauvignon blanc. This is a lovely example, showing poise and grace but also inviting and expressive flavours of peaches, apricots, grapefruit, and a hint of passion fruit. The palate is medium bodied and fleshy, with juicy acids. The length is very good, with a refreshing citrusy finish. I would drink this over the next year or two. Tasted January 2024.

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91 points - David Lawrason

This is an utterly charming, easy drinking and refined pinot. The hot 2018 vintage has layered in some ripeness with fine aromas of red cherry/raspberry compote, fine shrubby, foresty notes, and subtle oak spice. It is light to medium bodied, very smooth with fine tannin. The length is very good to excellent. Such poise and balance. Best now to 2023. Tasted June 2021.

90 points - Michael Godel

Nothing quite like a “normal” year to craft the most getable and crushable Bourgogne at the behest and passionate hands of Nicolas Potel. Old vines are in the 45 to 50 year range in highest of high density plantings harvested at a “normal” time in this post-modernist, climate adjusted period. That being the 5th to the 13th of September and fruit already ripe, burning the brix and phenol candle at both ends. Nose in to the promise of violets and roses, dive in for crunchy red fruit and some pretty solid tannins. That early yet necessary pick preserved acids with much to say in a pinot noir as tart and spirited as it is enriching of spirit. Despite the high drink-ability factor the structural parts creep up so wait a year for this to settle further. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted June 2021.

90 points - Sara d'Amato

Lovely, bright, crunchy and lively, this entry level Bourgogne from Roche de Bellene rarely disappoints. With a fine, elegant, and well-integrated oak treatment and an invitingly silky texture, this pinot noir is notably compelling and delivers solid value. Excellent length. Tasted June 2021.

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91 points - John Szabo, MS

Good volume and fruity depth here on this southern Rhône from Mas Carlot, richly flavoured, properly sapid, and saliva-inducing. I like the broad and rich palate, the long finish. White-fleshed orchard fruit leads and lingers. Top notch, and lovely. Tasted January 2024.

90 points - Megha Jandhyala

This golden southern Rhône blend is charmingly ripe and fleshy, even comforting, with notes of apples, tangerines, lychee, and toasted bread. The palate is mellifluous and pleasantly full, with a satin silk-like richness and juicy acids. The finish is gently warming, faintly bitter, and delicately textured. Tasted January 2024.

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93 points - David Lawrason

Chenas is one of the smallest appellations of Beaujolais, situated astride more famous Fleurie. Both villages tend to make gamays with both richness and elegance. This sports a ripe nose of cherry/strawberry jam, peony and subtle pepper. It is medium bodied, smooth, firm and refined with gentle tannin. And the length is excellent. Very easy to enjoy now and should hold through 2028. Tasted June 2022

92 points - Megha Jandhyala

This is a fetching gamay with buoyant fruit notes of cherries and raspberries accompanied by aromas of candied violets, rosemary, and snapped twigs. The palate echoes these flavours with subtle notes of cured meat joining the chorus. Tannins are satin smooth and acids are tart. Length is excellent with a delightful fruity finale. Best 2022-2027. Tasted June 2022 by Critic Understudy Megha Jandhyala.

91 points - John Szabo, MS

This is a pleasantly twiggy-herbal-stemmy expression of Chenas with plenty of joyful fruit underpinning the ensemble. I like the fleshy dark cherry fruit on the palate, the silky-firm tannins, and the excellent length in the category. A superior cru; drink or hold late into the decade. Tasted June 2022.

91 points - Michael Godel

Chénas by Aviron is the cru that takes what the Villages offers and simply gives more. By home and vineyard the extrapolation and extension is natural, seamless and duly noted, from dancing fruit, happy palate and now, something viably more. Salumi and wet stone, a modicum of structure, violets in perfume and furthered texture. A positive thickening that stays with the palate, lingers and gracefully moves on. This is gamay to pour for people ready to get it and get at it. Drink 2022-2026. Tasted June 2022.

90 points - Sara d'Amato

An intriguing mix of ripe and jammy along with stemmy and herbal from the warm 2020 vintage. Juicy on the palate with flavours of cherry, bramble, wet leaf and a hint of carbonic. Mouthfilling and fleshy overall with plush red fruit on the finish of very good length. Tasted June 2022.

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91 points - David Lawrason

This is a quite rich, slightly oxidative style of unoaked chardonnay with pale golden colour and a ripe nose of baked apple. Peach pie, toasty lees and vague nuttiness. It is medium weight, smooth and almost creamy with fine acidity and mineral underpinning. The length is excellent. Tasted June 2022

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90 points - David Lawrason

This is a delicious, fairly juicy and charming young gamay. There is a hint of meatiness on the nose but all kinds of candied strawberry/cherry as well, and violet-like florals. It is light to medium bodied, open knit, slightly sour-edged with very generous fruit on the palate. The tannins are notably mild, the alcohol provides some power and the length is very good to excellent. Tasted June 2022

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92 points - Michael Godel

The 2018 “Tradition” bottling represented Cahors with good distinction and from first nose this follow-up ’19 takes that excellence one step further. Not that it gives anything away for free because there is some reserve here but the wine opens with air and agitation to reveal classicism in every respect. The fruit is mature and slow developed, ever so slightly charred and surely on a low trajectory of incrementally developing complexity. Cautious now and yet so close to drinking as well it it’s ever going to be. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted March 2023.

91 points - John Szabo

Open and fragrant, maturing nicely at this stage, Lamartine's classic Cahors (90% malbec with 10% merlot), is a lovely and succulent wine, well-proportioned and fresh, with lively acids and a real limestone twang. Wood is fully in the background, an accessory to complexity, while tannins are ripe, fine and silky and length is exceptional in the price category. Classy, well made wine, authentic, and surely better than most Bordeaux for the money. Drink or hold another 4-6 years. Tasted March 2023.

Press Reviews

Wine Anorak

94 points - Jamie Goode

Powerful, lively and spicy with concentrated tangy citrus and pear fruit with some saline notes and tangy apple and lemon on the finish. Lovely intensity here with some crystalline citrus fruit.

Wine Align

93 points - David Lawrason

This is not your everyday chardonnay! In the Jura region of east-central France in the lower foothills of the Alps, there is tradition of oxidative winemaking, some under a layer of flor, as occurs in some Spanish sherry. As a result of the advance maturation this pours medium gold. The nose is dominated by classic hazelnut, honey, barley sugar sourdough and anise, around the ripe tropical fruit. It is medium weight, very smooth, well balanced and focused, with excellent length. More lithe lemon notes enliven the finish. There is a touch of tannin. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - John Szabo, MS

A pure chardonnay made in the traditional, oxidative Jura style under flor, not unlike fino sherry, but here the oxidation is more pronounced. Expect bruised apple and cold Orange Pekoe tea, cold wheat toast with honey, lemon pith and zest, and much more in an unusual but complex expression. The palate is mid-weight, showing more fruit and less oxidative qualities than the nose, succulent acids, and good to very good length. I must say, I like the salinity and savoury aspects, the lingering flavours and authentic but unimpeachable winemaking. There's fantasy here; be sure to decant before serving; best now-2026. Tasted December 2022.

91 points - Michael Godel

Clémentine Baud took over the family estate with her brother six years ago. The first father to daughter transition and with many to follow. The estate dates back to 1742, started by Jean-François. They farm 25 hectares, Clémentine’s father started with five and grew to 19 hectares when he retired. Picking for Sparkling now seems to happen in August, save for the difficult 2021 vintage. In 2017 70 per cent of the harvest was lost to the frosts, 50 in 2019 and 80 in 2021. "We have over 40 old varieties in the Jura, important for diversity, including those not allowed under the rules of the AOC," tells Clém. The fruit for Cuvée Flor is grown at a latitude of 46.73 North and though very much a cool climate place for chardonnay the threats of warmer winters and seasonal frosts has wreaked havoc over the past 10 years. A chardonnay of remarkable lustre, concentration and purity, worked by way of oxidative aging, low alcohol expectation starting at 12 and finishing no higher than 14 to 14.5. A floral chardonnay, not one related to yeast and surely a pretty in Jura wine. From the younger vines, phenolic and hinting towards though remaining clear of emerging boozy. Filled with flavour, hazelnut and praline, peach and yellow plum. A world of its own. Drink 2022-2025. Tasted July 2022.